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Fenders
Dirty Little Secret -
The Plastic Coating of Guitars since 1963
Fact:
All Fender Guitars made since 1963 are Polyester coated. Lacquer is put on
top of the poly to satisfy the general publics belief that Nitro Cellulose
(nitro) Lacquer finished guitars "breathe", "dry" and generally have
become the bottom line for creating great tome. I'm talking USA, Vintage
collectable instruments that the general public has bought, traded, and
sold for over 50 years. They came from the Fender factor with a hard
plastic jacket underneath it. A suffocating wolf, masquerading under a
cloak of Lacquer Fender later switched to 100% Poly and UltraViolet
cured Resin on Squire, Mexican, Japanese, some USA and all other imports
till this day.
Fact:
The two-part catalyzed coating named "Fullerplast" (Fuller for Fuller
O'Brien, the products creator, and plast for the obvious PLASTIC"), solved
all of Fenders finishing problems; encasing the deep wood pores in a
self-hardening plastic that wrapped the body in a rock-hard solid
coffin. In some cases we have found it to be as thick as a.060 string.
Yes, all of the wood moisture and characteristics are sealed in a virtual
time-capsule, only to be vented from the body through screw holes and
paint fractures. Share this info and be the hit of your next guitar
gathering!
Fact:
Fender rarely mentions Fullerplast, or the way it prepares its bodies
before applying Lacquer. If they mention it at all
So, when someone tells you that a Fender "nitro-cellulose" or "nitro"
finished guitar will sound better, have more warmth, or will dry out...
they really don't have the full story.
Ask any seasoned guitar craftsman what happens when you will apply paint
stripper to a Fender "nitro" finish.
The
nitro color comes off within minutes, leaving the guitar with a rock-hard
plastic coating that can not be removed with any chemical means. Sandpaper
barely scratches this coating, but will remove it with mechanical help.
Heat Guns will remove the coating, but not by softening it. Apply heat to
the Fullerplast coating and it will remain solid until about 300F, at
which time it will crack, and pop off of the guitar.
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WIN A BET,
BUT GET A PUNCH
The next time
someone brags about how good their "lacquer" Fender guitar sounds,
because it breathes, try this.
Take a cotton swab
dipped nail polish remover, and take a wipe at an inconspicuous area
on the guitar. Either
1) The finish will remain un-touched, or
2) You will wipe away the color coat, and see the rock-hard,
insoluble Fullerplast. (sunburst guitar photo on left)
If all the finish
comes off and you get to bare wood, the Fender guitar has been
stripped and refinished.
Either way, you get
to say you know something, before you hit the floor. |
It's a fact, , its scientific, and it's the skeleton in Fenders closet,
that they never want to be seen. They have kept it locked away like a
bastard child, allowing players, collectors, and experts to spread the
"nitro" legend as the holy-grail of tone!
When did Fender start the
plastic coating process, and why?
Most experts agree that Fullerplast was started to be used by Fender in
1963
There are many experts that are willing to share the facts with the guitar
community, just as I am.
The most time consuming part of finishing a solid guitar body, is the
process of filling the wood pores, and allowing the paint to lay flay,
with a gloss found on Grand Pianos, or automobiles. Fender needed a fast
and easy solution in order speed up production during the guitar craze of
the early 1960s. Encasing the wood in a smooth, hard, "glass" jacket
would eliminate up to 20 hours in each body prep. Fender even
experimented with a hot dip that resembled a candy apple method. The
problem was that the dip mixture would need to be at a temperature that
would damage the wood, or cause body moisture to create "steam pops" in
the coating
When
Fender switched to Alder (from Ash) as it's primary body wood in mid 1956,
many books and authorities state Fender started using the product called
"Fullerplast" This is a very misunderstood product. For example, there is
a picture in Tom Wheeler's American Guitars, page 54 (upper left corner),
of a man with long rubber gloves dipping bodies into a tank at Fender in
the late 1950's. The description incorrectly denotes the man is applying
Fullerplast to the bodies. Most likely, this man is staining the Alder
bodies yellow, a process used on Alder from 1956 and later before spraying
the sunburst finish.
(2)
Thanks to VintageGuitarHQ
Fullerplast is a clear, sprayed chemically curing sealer, unaffected by
solvents after it dries. It's invention is often given credit to Fuller
O'Brien (but often though to be named after the city of Fullerton, the
home of Fender) Whether either is the case, it is now manufactured
and distributed by
VanDee,
Fullerplast
soaks into the wood and creates a seal that prevents following coats from
soaking into the wood like a sponge. This means spraying the color coats
is easier and the coats can be applied thinner (saving material, money and
dry time). Even though alder is a "closed pore" wood, the first few coats
of lacquer will soak in like a sponge without some type of sealer coat.
Fullerplast dries in 15 minutes, and is paintable in one hour. It is also
applied very thin.
Most experts agree the actual product Fullerplast actually started to be
used around 1963 at Fender. Prior to that, Fender used other products as
their sealer coat, but they did the same thing. The sealer allowed any
color coat (be it sunburst or a custom color) to not soak into the wood.
Since the sealer is essentially a clear inexpensive primer, less color
would be needed (and color costs a lot more money than a cheap sealer).
Another misconception about Fullerplast is it's color. The sealers Fender
used including Fullerplast were clear, not yellow. The yellow seen in the
unpainted portions of a 1956 and later Alder body is actually a stain or
dye applied under the sealer coat. This was used to simplify the
sunbursting process. The Alder bodies are dipped in a vat of yellow
stain/dye. Next the Alder body is sealed with a very thin coat of clear
sealer (i.e. "Fullerplast"). After drying, the sunburst procedure is
continued by spraying the translucent red (starting in 1958) and dark
blackish-brown on the edges of the body, which completes the sunburst
look. Finally a clear coat is sprayed over the entire body to seal the
colors. By dipping the alder bodies in a yellow stain first, instead of
spraying yellow lacquer, there is one less step of lacquer to mix, spray,
and dry. *
By fall 1964, Fender changed the yellow making it more whitish and opaque
to better hide flaws in the wood. This allowed Fender to use cheaper Alder
with more cosmetic flaws. The more whitish yellow was then sprayed over
the sealer coat, as were the red and brown of the Sunburst. That is why
the red and yellow now looks much different on late 1964 and later
Fenders. This new whitish-yellow bleeds through the translucent red making
it more orangish. Note that even though Fender was now spraying the yellow
after the Fullerplast, they still continued to stain or dye the bodies
yellow before the sealer coat.
Current use of
Polyester and UV coatings on Fender Guitars.
Probably cause for another article is the case of Ultra Violet cured
paints and sealers now used by most production guitar manufacturers. UV
allows a very thick and durable coating to be applied directly over bare
wood without any need for pore filling. UV cures the paint to its hardest
state within minutes, not allowing the finish to soak into the wood.
If you have
ever chipped an Ibanez guitar, you know what I mean.
Essentially, beneath every vintage Fender is
an Ibanez coating in-waiting for you.
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