Fenders Dirty Little Secret -
The Plastic Coating of Guitars since 1963
Fact:
All Fender Guitars made since 1963 are Polyester coated. Lacquer
is put on top of the poly to satisfy the general publics belief
that Nitro Cellulose (nitro) Lacquer finished guitars "breathe",
"dry" and generally have become the bottom line for creating
great tome. I'm talking USA, Vintage collectable instruments
that the general public has bought, traded, and sold for over 50
years. They came from the Fender factor with a hard plastic
jacket underneath it. A suffocating wolf, masquerading under a
cloak of Lacquer Fender later switched to 100% Poly and
UltraViolet cured Resin on Squire, Mexican, Japanese, some USA
and all other imports till this day.
Fact:
The two-part catalyzed coating named "Fullerplast" (Fuller for
Fuller O'Brien, the products creator, and plast for the obvious
PLASTIC"), solved all of Fenders finishing problems; encasing
the deep wood pores in a self-hardening plastic that
wrapped the body in a rock-hard solid coffin. In some cases we
have found it to be as thick as a.060 string. Yes, all of the
wood moisture and characteristics are sealed in a virtual
time-capsule, only to be vented from the body through screw
holes and paint fractures. Share this info and be the hit
of your next guitar gathering!
Fact:
Fender rarely mentions Fullerplast, or the way it prepares its
bodies before applying Lacquer. If they mention it at all
So, when someone tells you that a Fender "nitro-cellulose" or
"nitro" finished guitar will sound better, have more warmth, or
will dry out... they really don't have the full story.
Ask any seasoned guitar craftsman what happens when you will
apply paint stripper to a Fender "nitro" finish.
The
nitro color comes off within minutes, leaving the guitar with a
rock-hard plastic coating that can not be removed with any
chemical means. Sandpaper barely scratches this coating, but
will remove it with mechanical help. Heat Guns will remove the
coating, but not by softening it. Apply heat to the Fullerplast
coating and it will remain solid until about 300F, at which time
it will crack, and pop off of the guitar.
|
WIN A
BET,
BUT GET A PUNCH
The next
time someone brags about how good their "lacquer" Fender
guitar sounds, because it breathes, try this.
Take a
cotton swab dipped nail polish remover, and take a wipe at
an inconspicuous area on the guitar. Either
1) The finish will remain un-touched, or
2) You will wipe away the color coat, and see the
rock-hard, insoluble Fullerplast. (sunburst guitar photo
on left)
If all
the finish comes off and you get to bare wood, the Fender
guitar has been stripped and refinished.
Either
way, you get to say you know something, before you hit the
floor. |
It's a fact, , its scientific, and it's the skeleton in Fenders
closet, that they never want to be seen. They have kept it
locked away like a bastard child, allowing players, collectors,
and experts to spread the "nitro" legend as the holy-grail of
tone!
When did Fender
start the plastic coating process, and why?
Most experts agree that Fullerplast was started to be used by
Fender in 1963
There are many experts that are willing to share the facts with
the guitar community, just as I am.
The most time consuming part of finishing a solid guitar body,
is the process of filling the wood pores, and allowing the paint
to lay flay, with a gloss found on Grand Pianos, or automobiles.
Fender needed a fast and easy solution in order speed up
production during the guitar craze of the early 1960s.
Encasing the wood in a smooth, hard, "glass" jacket would
eliminate up to 20 hours in each body prep. Fender even
experimented with a hot dip that resembled a candy apple method.
The problem was that the dip mixture would need to be at a
temperature that would damage the wood, or cause body moisture
to create "steam pops" in the coating
When
Fender switched to Alder (from Ash) as it's primary body wood in
mid 1956, many books and authorities state Fender started using
the product called "Fullerplast" This is a very misunderstood
product. For example, there is a picture in Tom Wheeler's
American Guitars, page 54 (upper left corner), of a man with
long rubber gloves dipping bodies into a tank at Fender in the
late 1950's. The description incorrectly denotes the man is
applying Fullerplast to the bodies. Most likely, this man is
staining the Alder bodies yellow, a process used on Alder from
1956 and later before spraying the sunburst finish.
(2)
Thanks to VintageGuitarHQ
Fullerplast is a clear, sprayed chemically curing sealer,
unaffected by solvents after it dries. It's invention is often
given credit to Fuller O'Brien (but often though to be named
after the city of Fullerton, the home of Fender) Whether
either is the case, it is now manufactured and distributed by
VanDee,
Fullerplast soaks into the wood and creates a seal that prevents
following coats from soaking into the wood like a sponge. This
means spraying the color coats is easier and the coats can be
applied thinner (saving material, money and dry time). Even
though alder is a "closed pore" wood, the first few coats of
lacquer will soak in like a sponge without some type of sealer
coat. Fullerplast dries in 15 minutes, and is paintable in one
hour. It is also applied very thin.
Most experts agree the actual product Fullerplast actually
started to be used around 1963 at Fender. Prior to that, Fender
used other products as their sealer coat, but they did the same
thing. The sealer allowed any color coat (be it sunburst or a
custom color) to not soak into the wood. Since the sealer is
essentially a clear inexpensive primer, less color would be
needed (and color costs a lot more money than a cheap sealer).
Another misconception about Fullerplast is it's color. The
sealers Fender used including Fullerplast were clear, not
yellow. The yellow seen in the unpainted portions of a 1956 and
later Alder body is actually a stain or dye applied under the
sealer coat. This was used to simplify the sunbursting process.
The Alder bodies are dipped in a vat of yellow stain/dye. Next
the Alder body is sealed with a very thin coat of clear sealer
(i.e. "Fullerplast"). After drying, the sunburst procedure is
continued by spraying the translucent red (starting in 1958) and
dark blackish-brown on the edges of the body, which completes
the sunburst look. Finally a clear coat is sprayed over the
entire body to seal the colors. By dipping the alder bodies in a
yellow stain first, instead of spraying yellow lacquer, there is
one less step of lacquer to mix, spray, and dry. *
By fall 1964, Fender changed the yellow making it more whitish
and opaque to better hide flaws in the wood. This allowed Fender
to use cheaper Alder with more cosmetic flaws. The more whitish
yellow was then sprayed over the sealer coat, as were the red
and brown of the Sunburst. That is why the red and yellow now
looks much different on late 1964 and later Fenders. This new
whitish-yellow bleeds through the translucent red making it more
orangish. Note that even though Fender was now spraying the
yellow after the Fullerplast, they still continued to stain or
dye the bodies yellow before the sealer coat.
Current use of Polyester and UV coatings on Fender Guitars.
Probably cause for another article is the case of Ultra Violet
cured paints and sealers now used by most production guitar
manufacturers. UV allows a very thick and durable coating to be
applied directly over bare wood without any need for pore
filling. UV cures the paint to its hardest state within minutes,
not allowing the finish to soak into the wood.
If
you have ever chipped an Ibanez guitar, you know what I mean.
Essentially, beneath every vintage
Fender is an Ibanez coating in-waiting for you.